Rhubarb Pickles

Spring and summer are full of amazing produce and as hard as I try I just can’t eat enough to keep up with the surplus of food from not only my own garden, but from those of friends and family (I know, I know, life is tough). You all know how much I love to bake, and eat baked goods, but sometimes you have to put down the butter and flour and eat something else, even I concede this is true. Now, I’m not a big fan of jam (unless it’s in cake, them jam on), so pickles are my go to way to use that produce. At the risk of sounding too Portlandia, you really can pickle most anything. I’m not a huge fan of canning either so I make quick pickles, they last for months in the fridge, or minutes if you bring them to a summer bbq.

My favorite is rhubarb. You might be confused, but it makes the best pickles, seriously. The sour quality of rhubarb pairs with the vinegar, salt, and sugar and goes with nearly anything. I don’t have a set recipe for pickles, I do use a standard ratio though. 1:1 water and vinegar coupled with 1:1 sugar and salt. Then use 1:16 water and sugar. So what that translates to is 1 T sugar for every 1 c water. You can then add in your herbs and spices as you choose. I made a batch recently and added cloves, allspice, cinnamon, bay, and red pepper flake, the warming spices coupled really well with the rhubarb. When I make cucumber pickles, I use coriander, whole black peppercorns, bay and sometimes rotate in star anise and fennel. You can dump the spices in with your brine, or wrap them in cheesecloth so you don’t have to pick them out of the pickles. I fluctuate back and forth, depending on their use (and sometimes if I have cheesecloth around the kitchen or not). The other thing to consider is which vinegar to use, because part of preserving is making sure you have created something that is safe to eat. It is typically recommended that pickles have a certain pH (the exception to that is lacto-fermentation, but that’s a different discussion), and while we have a pH meter where I currently work, I don’t have one at home, and most restaurants and professional kitchen don’t either. So, my default is to use distilled white vinegar for pickling, occasionally substituting apple cider vinegar if I want to change the flavor.

Basic Pickles

Ingredients:

  • 1T sugar
  • 1T salt
  • 1 c water
  • 1c white distilled vinegar
  • aromatics; coriander, peppercorns, bay, cinnamon sticks, clove, allspice, etc.

Method:

  1. adjust ingredient quantities for amount of produce to be pickled
  2. bring all ingredients to a boil
  3. let steep like tea for at least 10 minutes (you can leave it for hours if you like, but bring it back to a boil if you wait longer than 10 minutes)
  4. pour hot liquid over prepared produce, weight with a plate or bowl to keep produce under liquid
  5. let cool completely before covering
  6. refrigerate and enjoy the next day

Happy eating!

rhubarb pickles

Strawberry Rhubarb Pies

You know how nothing is as easy as you envision it? Or sometimes we get in our own way and create a situation where it isn’t as easy as we thought it could be. Cooking is my safe space for creating, and fixing, disasters; ok so maybe not disasters, but certainly learning that mistakes are not only learning opportunities, but (nearly) always fixable. Baking on the other hand is a trickier business. It is a process of chemistry, combining ingredients in that just right way that results in fluffy, creamy, crunchy in just the right ways, and a balance of sweetness or savoriness that captures your tastebuds and makes them ooo with excitement. So, clearly I really like baked goods. 

This week’s baking adventure involved strawberries and rhubarb. I grew up loving this flavor combination, my mom made strawberry pies with a jello filling. We often picked the strawberries ourselves from a local berry farm. The strawberries were suspended over her flaky crust, encapsulated in red gelatin, and bursted with the flavor of summer in every bite. When she added rhubarb it was often in a crisp, it turned creamy when it was cooked and the tart mixed with sweet flavors are what early summer means to me. 

This is a pretty quick and easy pie to make, I usually have a couple of balls of pastry dough hanging out in the freezer so that makes it even easier. There are typically two styles for the crust on this pie, the familiar Pâte Brisée on both the top and the bottom, or just on the bottom and a crumble on the top. The crumble includes, oats, brown sugar, butter as a jumping off point and whatever strikes your fancy as the flavor notes (cardamom, cinnamon, etc.). I decided I wanted a lattice top so pâte brisée it was for both.

I looked at two recipes because I was curious how the final results would differ, the main difference between the two was the thickener, berry pies require a starch to thicken the liquid. So in my usual fashion I blended the two and split the fruit mix in half adding the relative starch to each bowl.

The first was cornstarch, I have lots of experience using cornstarch for all sorts of things, it’s easy to use and produce consistent results. 

The other thickener I used was tapioca. This produced a bit of a conundrum as the recipe called for quick tapioca, which doesn’t mean tapioca starch, and none of the bags of tapioca at the store claimed to be quick (or slow, just tapioca). I made the decision there was going to be some tapioca pudding in my future and on to the kitchen I went, bag of tapioca in hand. 

You can see the difference in the unbaked pies, pictured below, a few of the small white balls of tapioca hanging out at the top. Because these pies are for personal chef clients, I decided one large pie didn’t make sense, full size muffin tins were the perfect solution (more on how, er, perfect that was later). It turned out I didn’t have quite enough rhubarb for the recipe, but I did have a lot of strawberries so instead of equal parts I used a larger amount of berries. I used a large round ring mold/cookie or biscuit cutter to get the desired size for the bottom crust and used my handy, dandy bench scraper to cut the strips for the lattice. After and egg wash, into the oven they went. I typically use baking times in recipes as a guideline as every oven is different, and once you change the size or shape of the baked good you’ve thrown off the cooking time anyway. I find checking at the 15 or 20 minutes mark lets you assess when to check next. 

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Once the pies were done I let them cool completely before removing them from the tins. This is where I ran into some difficulty. I usually bake pies in a glass pie dish, or make crostatas, which easily slide off the baking sheet. In either of those cases removing the lovely little pies is easy, not so the muffin tins. I didn’t pan spray the tins for two reason, I dislike pan spray and I was worried the crust would get too dark before the fruit cooked. Mistake made, lesson learned, pan spray for next time. I lost crust on a few of them and the lattice got bent on most of the others. Thankfully, half of this recipe test was being eaten by me and my coworkers so I had plenty of cute pies for clients, plus they’re so tiny I’m pretty sure even in their slightly sloppy form, most people would be happy to eat them. 

Strawberry Rhubarb Pies

Strawberry Rhubarb Pie

Ingredients

  • Pâte Brisée, you will need two rounds of dough
  • 3 1/2 c rhubarb, 1/2′ slices
  • 3 1/2 c strawberries, hulled and sliced or halved if tiny
  • 1/3 c packed light brown sugar
  • 1/3 c sugar
  • 1/4 tsp ground cardamom
  • pinch of kosher salt
  • 1/2 tsp pure vanilla extract
  • 1 T lemon juice
  • 1/4 c cornstarch or 1/4 c quick-cooking tapioca
  • 1 egg, lightly beaten with 1 T water or milk
  • optional: coarse sugar for garnish

Method

  1. preheat oven to 400°
  2. combine rhubarb, strawberries, brown sugar, granulated sugar, cornstarch/tapioca, salt, lemon juice, and vanilla extract together in a large bowl. Let the flavors marry while the oven preheats
  3. roll out your chilled crust to the desired size and carefully lay into your pie tin or (prepared) muffin tins
  4. if you are making a lattice top, you can cut strips out of your rolled out dough and lay them over your pie individually or make the complete lattice and lay the whole shebang over your pie
  5. lightly brush the top of the pie crust with the egg wash, this is the moment to sprinkle coarse sugar if you’re going that route
  6. place the pie onto a large baking sheet and bake for 20 minutes, turn down the temperature to 350°F and bake 25-30 minutes longer
  7. Transfer pie to wire rack to cool. Do NOT cut into it until it’s completely cool, seriously, step away now.

 

Tips: This a great pie to make a day in advance so the filling has time to set. You can also freeze any unbaked pie for up to three months, simply pull it from the freezer and pop it into your hot oven.

Happy eating!

Albondigas

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I’m dreaming of albondigas this week. I haven’t made them for a while and the last time they were made in my house my son made them for a school project. I seriously need to bust out the masarepa and make those soon! Check your local bodega for masarepa, it’s different than masa. Masa is corn treated with nixatamal, masarepa is precooked corn meal that is great in quick bread like arepas. I don’t recommend using masarepa for tamales or masa for areas. I also recommend using grass fed beef for this (well for all beef recipes actually), the flavor is worth it.

Here’s our recipe:

Albondigas

Ingredients (About 4 servings)

Meatballs

  • 1 pound ground beef
  • 1 large egg
  • ¼ cup masarepa
  • 1 garlic clove, minced
  • ¼ cup minced onion
  • 1 scallion, chopped
  • ¼ cup red bell pepper
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Sauce

  • 2T canola oil
  • 1T all purpose flour
  • 2 cups beef broth
  • ½ teaspoon ground cumin
  • 2c hogao
  • ¼ cup fresh cilantro

 

Directions

Meatballs

  1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F
  2. Place the ground beef in a large bowl. Add onions, garlic, scallion, red bell pepper, masarepa, egg, salt and pepper. Mix well using your hands.
  3. Form the meatballs and place them on a sheet tray.
  4. Roast meatballs in oven for 12 minutes

Sauce

  1. reduce beef broth by half
  2. heat canola oil over low heat, sprinkle in flour, whisking to combine
  3. Slowly, whisk in beef broth
  4. Add the hogao and cook for 10 minutes, stirring often. Return the meatballs to the sauce. Simmer until the sauce thickens slightly and the meatballs are heated through, about 15 to 20 minutes.
  5. Sprinkle with cilantro and serve over white rice.

 

Hogao

Ingredients (MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS)

  • 1 cup chopped scallions
  • 2 cups fresh chopped tomatoes
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • ¼ teaspoon ground pepper

Directions

  1. Heat the oil in a saucepan, add the tomatoes, scallions, garlic, ground cumin and cook gently for 10 minutes, stirring until softened.
  2. Reduce the heat to low, add the salt and , cook for 10 minutes more, stirring occasionally until the sauce has thickened. Check and adjust the seasoning.

Failure is always an option 

As a professional cook, my job is to make tasty food. Period. Somedays things don’t go as you hope and you have to fix it, in the quickest, cheapest way possible. I’ve done it many times. The goal is not to have to fix things, but the reality is it happens. Mistakes are made, something-equipment, ingredients-doesn’t respond as they should and still food must go out to the guest. So we learn to remedy sauces with cornstarch, add sugar/vinegar/seasonings to make a dish delicious even when it’s not quite what was intended. I’ve shown up for jobs found out there are ten different unplanned special meals needed and had to create something that fit the theme of the event for each of them (it’s helpful when there’s a dry erase board so I can create a chart in those situations!). 

At home I use those skills too.  My downfall in cooking in adhering to a recipe. My special power is looking in a fridge or cupboard and creating something tasty out of anything. When I teach a class, students want to know how the recipe works or what is the technique they should use: the reality is I spend so much time cooking by feel I don’t always know. So when I cook at home it is occasionally, interesting. My sweet children have almost stopped asking, “mom, what is it?” When casually asked to try something I’ve prepared. Their once picky tastes have expanded to include a decent array of flavors. They however hold firm to their opinions of texture and disdain of most cooked vegetables. 

This week I’ve had some down time and I’ve been cleaning out the freezer/fridge/cupboards at home, which has resulted in some delicious brownies (two versions, as usual Baking with Julia had the better recipe), and a mediocre banana cake. That was a combination of equipment fail, mistake, and inability to adhere to a recipe situation. Definitely on the, I’ll try it again list though. 

The best part of this week is I’ve been in a rut as far as experiments go, and now…I feel inspired to read some new cookbooks, try some new ideas, and keep working on improving my ability to adhere to a recipe. Failure is always an option, because that is how we learn. 

Here’s to pushing through and learning!

Happy New Year!

I’ve sat down to write at least three times in the past two weeks and something (or someone) has pulled me away, but at long last the radio silence is over!

My big project for 2017 is going to be focusing on charitable giving. Now as you may know, I’m a chef, and I’ll let you in on a little secret, we are not rolling in the dough (that just gets messy). What I can do though is give my time, and cook. Thankfully Chef Traci over at Succulent Catering is into this idea so we’re teaming up on a couple of projects, with more to come. We’ve been donating extra food to the homeless and firefighters for years (not completely connected, but I do want my firefighters well fed).

In our November planning meeting for the next quarter we laid out a short list of causes we feel passionate about and while there was some cross over, we each have a cause that we are focusing on at the moment. Chef Traci’s passion is seniors and we are cooking (see what I did there??) up a plan to offer lunch to the seniors living at Pike Place Market once a month. As for me, I have a big event coming up in a couple of weeks.

On January 26 we will be hosting an Aid for Syria fundraiser and auction at the Pike Place Market in Seattle. I wanted to be able to donate more than just a piddly little $20 to provide some relief to what’s happening in the region so I decided to invite 100 people to join me to donate. I’m so terrified about it. I’ll be honest, there’s a reason I’m a cook. People terrify me, but what’s happening in our world scares me more and I feel compelled to do something.

Other than that I’m updating the Wallingford Culinary Studio calendar this week and planning delicious classes. We have a new private dining room space so we’ll be adding some onsite dinners to our repertoire. AND I just heard there’s a new casual Louisiana style restaurant opening up near our kitchen, so I’m pretty sure that’s on my agenda this month too. I have to do some research for our Mardi Gras Dinner in February!

Lussekatter 

You know those foods that take you back to your childhood? Especially foods that were reserved for special occasions? Lussekatter, or Lucia buns as my mother always called them, were such a food for me.

In Sweden the eldest daughter is selected to act as Santa Lucia on the 13th of December. The origin being tied to something about Santa Lucia providing food for Christians hiding in some catacombs, but the celebration does occur near the winter solstice and is a celebration that brings light in winter to make it less bleak. If you want to geek out with me, check out sweden.se’s explanation of the holiday and make sure you watch the video, the music is a crucial part of the holiday (plus it’s quite cheeky).

Having dressed as Santa Lucia myself, in the 1st grade mind you, and after years of attending Swedish camp in northern Minnesota where I participated in the rounds of delivering early morning hot chocolate and lussekatter to the other campers, the songs are ingrained in my head. And the buns, well, it’s just not December without them.

In years past my mom made the buns for our family, but as she’s gotten older, I’ve taken up the staff and roped my own kids into making them with me. It doesn’t take much convincing because they love to eat them as much as I do.

Lussekatter

Ingredients

  • 2 (14-oz.) packages active dry yeast
  • 2 cups milk, heated to 115°
  • 2 tsp. saffron, lightly crushed
  • 34 cup plus 1 tsp. sugar
  • 6 12 cups flour
  • 34 tsp. kosher salt
  • 3 eggs
  • 12 tbsp. unsalted butter,cut into 12” cubes, softened
  • Canola oil, for greasing
  • 64 raisins, for garnish

Method

  1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, mix together yeast, milk, saffron, and 1 tsp. sugar; let sit until foamy, about 10 minutes.
  2. Stir in the remaining sugar, along with the flour, salt, and 2 eggs. Mix on low speed until dough forms and gathers around the paddle.
  3. Replace paddle with dough hook and add butter; knead on medium-high speed until dough pulls away from sides of bowl, 8 minutes.
  4. Transfer dough to a large bowl greased with oil and cover with plastic wrap; let rest in a warm place until doubled in size, 1 hour.
  5. Divide dough into 32 pieces and roll each piece into an 8″-long rope. Form each rope into an S shape and then roll each end into a tight spiral. (See Shaping Saffron Buns for illustrated step-by-step instructions.)
  6. Place shaped dough pieces 2″ apart on parchment paper–lined baking sheets; cover with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place for 30 minutes.
  7. Heat oven to 400°.
  8. Uncover the dough pieces and place a raisin at the center of each of the spirals. Lightly beat remaining egg with 1 tbsp. water and brush each bun with egg mixture. Bake until buns are golden brown and cooked through, 16 minutes.
  9. Transfer buns to a wire rack and let cool for at least 10 minutes before serving.

Ok, so this isn’t totally recipe related, but it is hilarious. I was still pretty cute in 1978, and I doubt I was as pissed as I look, but who knows, that plastic wreath on my head probably wasn’t that comfortable.

karen-santa-lucia

 Yorkshire Pudding 

At Succulent Catering, we’ve been serving up a lot of Yorkshire puddings this holiday season. We started with Thanksgiving parties and have now progressed to Christmas-we just did a buffet for 200-where these small, airfill, eggy bites of goodness were featured. The funny thing is Chef Traci and I had had them before, but never made them in such large quantities. It turns out they’re quite easy to make, we made them even easier by skipping the pan drippings portion of the recipe.  What, you say?! But they are just vehicles for the pan drippings! It turns out you can make them using canola oil and they will still be fabulous with your holiday roast. I even added paprika, fresh thyme, and cracked pepper to boost the flavor, turns out it was worth it.

If you’ve never had these before, they are a staple of traditional British Sunday dinner. Though to have originated in the 1700’s when wheat flour became more prevalent in Britain it was originally served with gravy as an appetizer rather than with the main meal. If you want to geek out about the history of these little fluffy bites of goodness as much as I do, check out Historic UK, their write up is fantastic.

yorkshire-puddings

Mini Yorkshire Puddings

Ingredients

  • 1 14 cups milk
  • 1 cup plus 2 tbsp. flour
  • 3 large eggs
  • optional:
    • 1/2 t paprika or cayenne
    • 1 t fresh thyme, chopped and picked
    • 1/4 t black pepper
    • any other seasonings you want, let your creativity run amok

Method

  1. whisk together all ingredients, let sit one hour (a little longer is ok if you’re not ready at the one hour mark)
  2. Preheat oven to 450°.
  3. Put a small amount of canola (or other oil, not olive–it’s smoke point is too low and will add a flavor you don’t want in this situation) into each cup of a nonstick muffin pan.
  4. Heat pan in oven for 15 minutes.
  5. Pour batter evenly between cups; bake until risen and brown, about 20 minutes.
  6. Reduce oven temperature to 350°; bake for 10 minutes to set puddings (you may want to reduce the heat even earlier. If the puddings start to brown in the first 20 minutes, reduce heat and cooking time.)
  7. Serve with prime rib, or any cut of roasted beef.

Happy eating!